Eat your way along Sherbrooke in Westmount

Barbara Moser

July 2012

To continue on our hungry way along Sherbrooke in N.D.G./Westmount to my favourite outdoor eateries, let’s begin with Yuki, a Japanese bakery and café with everything from take-out bento boxes to glorious layer cakes that look so splendid they would do nicely for a wedding!

On their website, they offer to create your “dream cake” for a special occasion.

My favorite product here is, strangely enough, the rye bread, which I consider to be the best I’ve ever tasted. Who ever thought the Japanese could perfect rye bread? Only in Montreal.

My other favourite is the lime pound cake, a perfect concoction of sweet and sour that I often bring to a dinner as a main dessert. If they’re out of it, the blueberry pound cake with lemon icing is a close second. I’m afraid to bring either of them home to our empty nest, so I only buy them when I’m invited for dinner.

Hank Teav’s bakery, Yuki, offers the best rye bread in town, plus desserts to die for, Barbara Moser says. Photo: Barbara Moser

There are only a couple of tables outside and fewer inside but it’s a restful place to park yourself for a coffee and scone with lemon icing.

5211 Sherbrooke. 514-482-2435.

Starbuck’s at the corner of Claremont is a great place to cool off during hot days. If you’re a dog person, you can join others at umbrella-covered tables outside. It’s a busy corner with American Apparel next door and the 24 bus stop in front, but it’s hard to find a better cold coffee drink. I love their little tidbit scones and cupcakes. You can almost believe you’re only having a bite.

4943 Sherbrooke. 514-904-0178.

I have to say I still love Dairy Queen, even though there are many fancier ice cream shops in Westmount. There’s nothing like the chocolate dip soft vanilla cone on a hot day. Of course you have to share your outdoor space with lots of kids and dogs, but hey, isn’t that what summer is all about?

What a great place to take the younger set for a special blizzard or a “baby cone,” as I always call them when I order the child’s size for myself.

4890 Sherbrooke. 514-485-6583.

Al fresco dining is a hallmark of summer

Barbara Moser

June 2012

This Father’s Day—or any day—there’s nothing quite like eating in the sun or shade of cafés in Westmount Village on Sherbrooke between Victoria and Claremont.

Foumagerie, with more tables outside than in, will satisfy your palate with their array of sandwiches and salads, all made fresh and on the spot. Sandwiches include such delicacies as smoked salmon, roast beef, artichoke and cheddar. My favorite is the Mediterranean with Monterey Jack cheese, foumagerie sauce, artichoke hearts, capers, black olives and lettuce. My favorite salad? The combined Greek and Caprese with bocconcini, celery rémoulade, tomatoes and pepper.

Their cheeses are sold by the kilo or pound, and they offer fresh baguette, boxed pasta and sauces. You can eat lunch while planning what to take home for dinner. They offer a daily special of a sandwich and salad or soup and coffee. We often share a salad and sandwich. Their gazpacho is the talk of Westmount and there is a plentiful variety of vegetarian soups. You have to stand in line during weekends, but service is fast. 4906 Sherbrooke, corner Prince Albert.

Cavallero is one of my favourite venues, offering delicious sandwiches/paninis, exotic mushroom and artichokes to go with them, even homemade pasta dishes. I love their wet cappuccino but don’t ask me exactly what is in it. There are also frozen pastas to take home for dinner, with homemade sauce and some of the best olive oils and balsamic drizzles in town. Cavallero is known to the Jewish community for their holiday challahs—definitely the best in Montreal. Of course, they are not for the strictly kosher crowd. 4865 Sherbrooke.

Unfortunately, Cavallero doesn’t have washrooms. Fortunately, Davids Tea next door allows you to use theirs. While I’m there, it’s hard to resist an iced tea and a cupcake. What a selection and so much fun to watch them make it while tasting the tea of the day. And Cavallero doesn’t mind you bringing your tea in to go with your sandwich. I guess the adage “good fences make good neighbours” doesn’t apply here.

Next issue, I will continue with my take on other outdoor cafés along the street. In the meantime, don’t miss the fabulous street fair along Sherbrooke from Victoria to Claremont and beyond from June 15-17. Happy bargain shopping!

Ganesh removes economic obstacle to dining out

Irwin Block

May 2012

If you’re looking for a solid Indian restaurant for Sunday brunch, a place that also offers Western-style buffet breakfast, Restaurant Ganesh is it.

But you won’t see it on a casual drive since it’s easy to miss, located in an office building in St. Laurent, sharing a parking lot with an Esposito’s supermarket. The main dining room is a few steps down in a semi-basement, and once you enter, you will see a statue of Ganesh, the elephant-headed Hindu god of success.

You then enter a dining room, much of which is set up for traditional Indian weddings, with special chairs set up for the bride and groom and family, facing a dance floor. Crystal chandeliers give off subdued lighting over a dozen or so tables adjacent to the buffet. Popular Indian music on the loudspeakers prepares you for the taste treats to come.

We were warmly greeted by Daniel Landreville, a longtime friend of the owner, Ram, and as the first guests to arrive he offered us our choice of tables, richly set with tablecloths and cloth napkins.

The selection was displayed on two tables: the first with salads, a nice selection of fresh cut fruit, and several Indian desserts. The main table had the pakora and samosa starters, soups, curries, tandoori chicken, vegetarian dishes, nan bread cut in triangles, and appropriate condiments.

The fact that this all-you-can eat feast, from 11 am to 3 pm on Sundays, sets you back only $9.95 per person, coffee or tea included, is a tremendous deal. The selection may be wider at other Indian buffets, but it will cost you a good 50 per cent more.

All three of us agreed the quality and freshness of the food, the warm service and pleasant surroundings made it a rare find in these economically difficult times.

Barbara and my mother, Ruth, started with the fresh tomato, cucumber and lettuce salads, and passed on the potato and chick-pea salads. The veggies were fresh and crisp, so fresh that Ruth, still watching calories at 94, declared no dressing was needed.

For those who fancy a Western-style brunch, there was a table of French toast, omelettes, bacon and ham, pancakes, home-fried potatoes and beans. Kids can take home a mini-box of cereal from the dessert table—unopened.

Having had breakfast at home, I avoided the starters and sampled the curries—lamb and beef were on the milder side, just right for the time of day. The butter chicken was flavourful. Ruth and Barbara enjoyed the Basmati rice with saffron and peas while I went for the warm nan bread.

We dipped into dessert—delicious gulab jamun, spongy milky balls soaked in rose-scented syrup and caramel custard, with plenty of luscious fruit.

Ruth loved the fresh whole strawberries, contrasting their richness with the bland ones often sold at this time of year in supermarkets.

We heartily endorsed her verdict of Ganesh: “All this fresh and tasty food, and fine service for $9.95 including tea or coffee: It’s a steal.”

Restaurant Ganesh offers a special Mother’s Day brunch for $14.95 including tea or coffee and a flower for each mother. They also cater weddings and other celebrations. 300 Marcel Laurin. The buffet is offered daily. The price is $12.95 in mid-afternoon and $14.95 from 5 pm to 9 pm. Combos are $12.95. Not wheelchair accessible but only a few steps down. 514-747-9392.

Ettinger’s: Save room for dessert

Kristine Berey

April 2012

Leave your cares at home, bring friends and loved ones and a big appetite, and you’re sure to be rewarded at Ettinger’s Deli and Bar, on Newman in LaSalle.

In a former auto-parts shop amid strip malls, garages and fast-food restaurants, what must have been an industrial space has morphed into a spacious dining area on two levels, with a fully licensed bar. The rich walnut stained tables and chairs are balanced by a wall of picture windows, flooding the front area with natural light. Prints of charming vintage antique-car advertisements adorn the walls.

Two welcome features for ladies are a small hook on the undersides of the tables, to hang your purse, and, equally important, pristine bathrooms.

Ettinger’s menu is vast and imaginative, featuring an old-style delicatessen menu including kosher-style and vegetarian dishes and house specialties. There are hamburgers, French fries, smoked meat, salads, surf’n’turf, sandwiches, and a “Junior” version of these adult classics for the kiddies, who are made to feel welcome.

The food, including a special spice mix found on the tables, is prepared on the premises—the smoked meat is smoked upstairs and hamburgers are made on the spot, which is why it takes about 15 minutes for it to arrive.

“Nothing here is frozen,” our waitress, Krystal, assured us. The affordably priced dishes have a personal touch, as lowly condiments that one never thinks twice about achieve star status with Ettinger’s name on the menu: This includes Ettinger’s mustard, Ettinger’s mayo, (spicy and regular, featuring Ettinger’s special spice blend—both delicious), Ettinger’s traditional coleslaw (a little on the sweet side but with a clean home-made taste), barbecue sauce, poutine sauce and marinara (can’t stop eating it once you start) and meat sauce.

My companions were delighted with their choices of the turkey sandwich (made with real roast turkey and accompanied by a fresh garden salad featuring various greens), Classic Luxenburger, and LaSalle Burger, served with caramelized onions, while I think my Saul’s Original Home-Made Smoked Meat Sandwich was one of the best I have ever tasted.

The French fries were curly, but not greasy.

Though we all chose meat dishes, vegetarians would not be at a loss here, as the menu features breaded calamari, beer-battered mushrooms, home-cured gravlax, fish and chips, red pepper and lentil soup and a vegetarian burger with all the traditional accoutrements.

If there is a downside, it is that the portions are truly man-size—not your average man, but perhaps a truck driver or a weight lifter. This is great if you are a hungry man, but for us ladies, there was simply no room for dessert, which was a shame.

The dessert/drinks menu has all the nostalgic treats you read about in Archie comics: old-fashioned sundaes made with two scoops of French vanilla, triple chocolate or strawberries and cream premium ice cream, hot fudge, caramel or strawberry sauce, topped with whipped cream, nuts and a cherry … need I go on?

Besides apple pie and chocolate cake, there are old-fashioned milkshakes and ice-cream floats.

For more sophisticated palates, other offerings include Ettinger’s Grand Marnier cheesecake, cappuccino, latte and sparkling water, all of which, alas, will have to be revisited.

9100 Newman. 514-408-9100, ettingers.ca

Cajun hot spot is wickedly spicy and completely delightful

Sarah Mudrosky

March 2012

Sherbrooke in N.D.G. sometimes makes Montreal winter look like the grimiest, grayest time imaginable. But step through the door of La Louisiane and you’ll be magically teleported to a better and warmer place.

You’ll feel you’ve been swept along the Mississippi River to New Orleans as you wander into the dimly lit, cozy jazz bar.

What struck my aunt and I as we entered was the romantic feel. And its empty state—the restaurant only opens at 5:30 pm and we were there too early. The kind staff let us sit at a table while glasses were set out and candles lit.

The restaurant is one rather small room with a long wooden bar and an open kitchen, from which we could see tall columns of fire bursting from gas burners.

The back wall is painted with a huge abstract mural of a jazz band and dramatic-looking masks. The other walls are covered in framed paintings of New Orleans, the vibrant colours bringing the unique charm of a distant city to life.

The high ceiling keeps the restaurant from seeming crammed or claustrophobic. The tables are small and square, neatly covered in crisp, white tablecloths.

The space is open but intimate, perhaps because the jazz/soul music drowns out other diners, wrapping you and your table in a blanket of musical privacy.

We ordered a big basket of sweet potato fries ($5) from the handsome waiter (my aunt suggestively raised her eyebrows at me whenever he walked by).

He recommended the alligator bites ($9.50), but we were reluctant to take a bite of fried reptile.

We also ordered the shrimp magnolia penne plate ($13) and the dinosaur ribs ($23) for my carnivorous, meat-loving companion. The food was out of this world.

The shrimp magnolia consisted of grilled tiger shrimp in a creamy white-wine creole sauce with shallots, served on a bed of penne. It was wickedly spicy and completely delightful. The dinosaur ribs were a steaming pile of scorched, juicy-looking meat that fell off the bones, marinated in a mango sauce and served with a little bowl of hot barbecue sauce and a side of fries.

The inimitable creole food, paired with the unique atmosphere truly sets this restaurant on a prominent pedestal.

Full and happy, we did not order dessert, however we did scan the dessert menu.

We discovered reason enough to come again soon: The Mississippi fudge and pecan torte ($7.50), or the sweetened bananas cooked in buttery liqueur ($7.50).

And the jazz coffees! They sound like the non-fatal equivalent of dying and going to heaven.

Each one named after a jazz artist, these tall-glassed concoctions (ranging between $8 and $8.75) are outrageous but oh-so-tempting blends of coffee and liqueurs.

My aunt and I considered returning the next evening just for dessert and a pair of Ella Fitzgeralds as we tipped the handsome waiter and slipped into our coats.

Even when the cold Montreal air hit us and snow crunched under our boots, the spiced flavour of our evening lingered, along with the fading notes of a soulful tune.

La Louisiane, 5850 Sherbrooke W. 514-369-3073, lalouisiane.ca

Yangtze tradition rises from the ashes

Irwin Block

February 2012

When fire destroyed the popular Yangtze Restaurant on Van Horne December 3, the reaction from its fans was immediate. A 55-year tradition, famous for its golden egg rolls, serious plum sauce and succulent garlic spare ribs—highlights of its traditional Cantonese cuisine—went up in smoke, and many West End residents felt a deep sense of loss.

The lament was so loud that the owners, while awaiting a settlement with insurance adjusters before deciding whether to rebuild, relocated two weeks later to 6066 Sherbrooke W. at Hampton, in the vacant premises of Tchang Kiang, which closed in July.

They adjusted to changing tastes by adding specialties to the Szechuan and Peking menu that Tchang Kiang had been offering. But it’s those hearty mainstays—the spare-rib-chicken fried rice-chow mein combos—that is drawing loyal Yangtze fans to the new location. The dinner for two, Yangtze-style, ranges from $22 to $35, or $12.50 to $17.50 for single diners.

Symbolizing the merger of the traditions is a painting of the former red and yellow sign that was a magnet for hungry West End residents for almost 55 years.

The new home is in a classy dining room with black furniture and fittings, Chinese lanterns and wall art, plus soft music. It is an intimate setting, with 70 comfortable chairs, and several cozy nooks. There is a full bar, but we asked for a pot of Jasmine tea to set the right mood for the evening repast.

We decided to forgo the Yangtze mainstays, opting instead for some of the newer dishes.

I chose the Peking hot and sour soup ($3.50), which was sufficiently spicy and tasty. Barbara, a vegetarian, was equally interested in soup, but was told all were made with chicken broth. Owner Marco Yao promised to rectify this.

He also said the cooks would expand the range of vegetarian offerings, which at this point are limited to three—tofu with vegetables ($12), mixed vegetables ($11), and a broccoli, black mushroom and snow pea dish ($13). This should add appeal to those who prepare their Chinese without meat, fish, or seafood, and a good move as the Yangtze reinvents itself.

At Yao’s suggestion, I was served a heaping dish of sesame beef ($13.50), which was not too sweet. The scallops came piping hot in a light sauce garnished with snow peas and red pepper.

The Chinese curried chicken ($14) was served in a brown sauce with onions, green pepper and celery and, though marked with a chile pepper, was mild.

We would suggest that those who like their dishes to have more of a bite should tell their servers when placing their orders.

We were so full, we decided against the chilled lichee dessert, saving that for our return. The espresso was a welcome surprise.

Chez Cora reminds us why we love going for brunch

Irwin Block

December 2011

The weekend brunch is becoming part of our way of life, and we saw clearly why on a recent Sunday when we sampled the offerings at Chez Cora on St. Jacques W. near Montreal West.

Set back from the road by a large parking lot, just opposite a Loblaw’s, there is a marked contrast between the restaurant’s unprepossessing façade and the quality of the food.

About 25 customers were in line when we arrived and it took 12 minutes before we got a table, but we soon found out why it was so popular.

This Chez Cora specializes in gourmet breakfasts—omelets, pancakes and French toast—bottomless coffee and lots of fresh fruit to add healthy decoration to each plate.

The place was filled with eager clients of all ages, devouring their food with gusto as they engaged in animated conversations. The vibe was great, the service was polite, friendly and patient.

Our waiter offered fruit cocktails ($3.25), which Barbara accepted—a delicious cranberry, strawberry and peach smoothie, with no yogurt or milk, that is a great alternative to plain orange juice.

Ruth, an experienced cook with an unerring eye for the healthy alternative, ordered the spinach and cheddar crêpe ($9.95), which gained her full-fledged approval. Eva required no coaxing as she savoured every last morsel of her raspberry crêpe ($10.75), including a raspberry, honey and English cream coulis. Pure maple syrup (50 cents) added another level of sweetness.

Barbara ordered a strawberry waffle with custard ($10.25) —crusty on the bottom and soft on top—that was topped with a generous amount of very fresh strawberries.

Given my need to avoid cholesterol, I chose the fruit plate with Swiss cheese and rye toast ($11.45), which was colourful, varied and filling. When I asked for crisper toast than that served, the waiter eagerly complied.

I walked past the open kitchen and understood the secret of the speedy service—half a dozen busy cooks preparing food for efficient waiters.

All in all, a first-class dining experience. When we left at 1:30pm, another dozen people were lined up to get a table, proof, if any were needed, that the word is out that this is a great spot for all-day weekend brunch.

There is also a luncheon special offered during the week ($7.45-$12.45), with an early bird special for guests who arrive before 8 am. ($3.95-$5.45).

Chez Cora, 6685 St. Jacques W. 514-369-0733. It is wheelchair accessible.

Busy kitchen, happy faces

Irwin Block

November 2011

Dejeuner en Compagnie has made such a name for itself on the West Island that a second outlet with a similar name is packing them in.

We drove to the breakfast/brunch restaurant at 3237 Sources in Dollard des Ormeaux (Dejeuner Inc. is at 5701-C St. Jean) with our mothers on a recent Sunday. It’s in Galeries des Sources near a huge Super C. Upon arrival, we were greeted by the buzz of diners indulging in huge plates of food.

Behind them, half a dozen cooks and kitchen workers could be seen busily preparing orders. The combination—happy faces on the guests and a busy, efficient looking kitchen—were excellent signs, borne out by the food.

It’s a modern, relaxed setting, formerly Tutti Frutti, and our table of four was seated next to floor-to-ceiling windows that open onto a patio.

Irwin’s raspberry yogurt twister et al Photos: Barbara Moser

The next good sign was Julio, our congenial waiter, who immediately offered coffee—most dishes include bottomless cups, including decaf—and helped us with the extensive menu.

The main dishes cover a huge range of combinations: various types of pancakes, waffles, crepes, egg dishes and omelets, French toast and eggs Benedict and Florentine.

Being hungry, we passed on the smoothies, juices and blended drinks offered and went straight to the main items.

Eva, who has a sweet tooth or two, went for the waffles with two eggs, sunny-side up, ($8.95), with maple syrup (90 cents). Though she normally finishes everything on her plate, Eva did not seem to mind sharing her scrumptious waffles.

Ruth, always nutrition conscious, chose the spinach and cheddar crêpe ($11.95), which was topped with a hefty cheddar slice that had a nice sharp bite to it. (There was more than enough for all to sample.) She passed on the hollandaise and béchamel sauces.

Eva’s supersized waffle and eggs plate.

Barbara chose a Portobello mushroom and Brie cheese omelet. She loved the way it melted together. A hefty side of potatoes comes with most plates. Substitute with fruit for $2.75 or salad for $2.20.

But those potatoes are hard to pass up, even when you know you shouldn’t—thin slices with skin seasoned with paprika, oregano, salt and chili powder. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Trying hard to lose my pot and lower my cholesterol, I happily selected from the Fruits Inc. menu—a raspberry yogurt and honey twister (the shape of the glass) with muesli, served with fresh fruit and apple bread ($11.75). The fruits, stacked in a tower, included slices of kiwi, starfruit, pineapple, strawberries, grapefruit, pears, and grapes. I happily shared the apple bread, which combined the flavours of apple cake an French toast.

It’s noisy, but that’s the sound of hungry people devouring food in a congenial atmosphere.

We sat beside students with an iPad, eating as they studied, and the room was filled with people of all ages and backgrounds — a veritable West Island microcosm.

My verdict: delicious, varied, nutritious, and hard to find anywhere else on the island.

The verdict from all diners: delectable food, huge portions, reasonable prices, and excellent service.

There is a cheaper Kid’s Inc. menu. During the week there is a luncheon menu from 11 am to 3 pm, with a seven-item menu that features seafood vol-au-vent and blade roast with veggies ($10.95), and steak and fries ($12.95.) Get a Fidelity Card and enjoy your 10th lunch free.

There is also an early bird special—$2 off any plate until 8:30 am.

The restaurant is wheelchair accessible and accepts major credit cards.

Great Indian food, killer desserts, fit for a Maharaja

Irwin Block

October 2011

On a cold, blustery, rainy autumn night, we arrived at Buffet Maharaja with high expectations. Happily we can report they were met— even surpassed.

It had been a while since we had dropped by to feast from the well-stocked tables at this all-you-can-eat Indian buffet and we were astounded by the quality of the food and the warmth and comfort of the finely appointed eatery on René-Lévesque. The freshness and care taken in preparing the vast variety of dishes is without comparison on the local scene. Add to its classics a new sweet table, prepared by a renowned Bangla Deshi sweets master and you have what surely is a treasure in the city’s culinary scene.

The first thing we did was walk around to “case the joint” so we could see what was there and plan our repast so as not to overeat. The concept should be treated as an opportunity to taste, savour and enjoy slowly, not to gorge.

For starters, Barbara focused on the large variety of vegetarian options, sampling the dal (lentil soup), which was delicately flavoured with turmeric, while I went for its cousin, the curry-flavoured Mulligatawny soup, made with chicken broth. Both delighted our taste buds. We sampled the fried vegetable pakoras, veggie samosas and onion bhaji, heightening the experience with hot, sweet-and-sour tamarind sauces and/or mango chutney. We were offered a freshly baked nan of our choice—delectable.

We were now ready for the main event, Barbara heading to the vegetarian section while I went to the meat and poultry section, where there also are a few seafood and fish dishes.

A superb cook, when she has the time, Barbara loved the spicy chick peas, insisting that I sample the dish, which I did and immediately concurred. The saag spinach was very fresh, not mushy or overcooked, and you could make out tiny pieces of leaf. The mixed veggies and green beans and potato also met her criteria of retaining shape and texture and not overpowering, spice-wise.

I started with the seafood—giant breaded and fried scallops tasted fresh and moist. Large garlic shrimps and grilled shrimp jekka on a skewer were equally delectable. As the reader will have noticed, we passed on the various rice dishes to leave room for maximum sampling. I loved the beef vindaloo, which was kept moderate on the hotness scale. I wrapped them in freshly baked nan breads, plain and with vegetables. Yummy. The hot sauce to accompany the chicken tikka on skewers was also kept to a moderate scale, these moist morsels a delight to devour. The lamb saag, cooked slowly, was savoured slowly to better experience various layers of flavouring.

I then realized I had missed a whole section and had to pass on the curries, butter chicken and chicken korma, sampling instead the tandoori chicken, which had that distinctive colour and was tasty and fun to eat.

There was a large and varied salad bar but it was time to move on to the desserts. We ignored the Western desserts, deciding instead to sample the Indian ones, based on homemade cottage cheese and prepared by the buffet’s newest cook, Osman Ahamed, said by restaurant management to be a world-famous dessert chef. We found out why, as we devoured these small balls of varied colours, flavours and textures, never too sweet, a soothing and even sensuous antidote to the spicy food we had just consumed. We drank Coke ($2.95) and ended with pots of Indian tea ($2).

Service was attentive and friendly throughout. What’s amazing about this dining experience is the relatively low price, $16.99 Monday to Wednesdays, $18.99 Thursday to Sunday. Drinks and service are extra. The 60-plus set gets 25% off Wednesdays.

There is free parking off Mackay St. behind the restaurant for up about 12 cars, while the charge is $4 in the adjoining lot, behind the Bar-B Barn.

Buffet Maharaja 1481 René Lévesque W. 514-934-0655

The high brows and low brows of dining in and out

Melani Litwack

May, 2011

Hungry? There’s an app for that.

Created by the people behind Gourmet and Bon Appetit magazines, Epicurious.com has an app that provides not just the recipes—it gives you a shopping list as well. The website features articles and dishes to please the most discerning palate.

Mmmm. Nothing says trailer-park entrée like good old mac’n’cheese with a side of fries. Photo: Stuart Spivack

Chow.com is the go-to site for foodies everywhere. Whether it’s a video showing you how to use string to trim a rack of lamb (just like the butcher!) or a recipe for lemon ricotta pancakes, there’s a wealth of kitchen tricks at your fingertips.

They’ll even show you how to open a beer bottle with a carabiner.

Not sure where to eat while on vacation? Looking for a particular type of restaurant or ingredient? Hop over to the boards at companion site Chowhound.com, where members will be happy to point you in the right restaurant direction or suggest the perfect dining adventure.

Need to stretch those leftovers? Looking for the perfect trailer-park entrée?

Come on over to the place where “gourmet” is a bad word—a trashy eats blog (http://trashy-eats.livejournal.com). Unabashedly low brow, the community revels in being “lusciously low rent.”

Let them eat éclairs!

Gabrielle Colacci

April, 2011

Walking into Pekarna, a café at the Pepsi Forum, a sense of calm set in as I took my seat near the array of mouth-watering desserts.

From the range of cakes to the sinfully delicious looking cookies, my decision was a difficult one. Finally, I chose an éclair and a divine apple turnover.

The éclair ($2.47) had a nice, spongy consistency. When combined with fluffy whipped cream within and the slightly bitter dark chocolate on the top, it’s impossible to stop yourself from consuming the whole thing in one minute flat. The turnover($2.07) had a deep golden colour, from the baked sugar on top. The scrumptious danish had a light flaky texture that was a good base for the tangy apples. Sweet and tart played with my taste buds in the most delightful way.

I finished my last delicious bite of apple turnover, the gentle voice of John Mayor in the background, and I thought, what a relaxing way to spend my afternoon.

Brunch at Casa Maura: What’s in that pancake?

Barbara Moser

March, 2011

This was not our first visit to Casa Maura. Since they opened at 6290 Somerled, corner Madison, we have sampled most of their menu.

We had a successful dinner party for 30 people in honour of Irwin’s daughter’s graduation from medical school. It was in June and Casa Maura was the perfect venue for us. We were treated like family by owners Reza and Maura, and our guests loved the food and the classy atmosphere.

One recent Sunday, we tried their weekend brunch. I have my favourite at Casa Maura, the only place I ever order pancakes. I have to admit that I’m slightly addicted to their pancake, a 12-inch round, light but crispy on the ends delight, topped with a sprinkle of icing sugar and served with a small bowl of fresh fruit for $7.95. A small bottle of maple syrup can be added for $1.50, well worth it because the size of the bottle is 10 times the usual amount you pay for. Of course, we don’t want to waste and are careful about pouring it onto the pancake. I really don’t know what the magic ingredient is in Maura’s pancake, but I allow myself the calories every time I walk in, be it a Saturday after garage sales or for Sunday brunch.

Irwin chose the Mexican eggs ($12.95), a light and delectable mixture of scrambled eggs with jalapeno peppers, finely chopped tomatoes and onions, served with a small dish of refried beans. Irwin asked if he could exchange the tortillas that normally accompany the dish for brown toast and of course, his wishes were met with a smile. He also enjoyed the small bowl of fresh fruit.

Although it is not on the menu, main breakfasts include orange juice and coffee, a rarity for Montreal restos. Neither of us sampled the Huevos rancheros this Sunday but they did look heavenly on the table next to ours—two sunnyside-up eggs topped with salsa and cheese and served on a tortilla. Coffee is limitless and water is placed on the table immediately. Feel free to practice your Spanish and Iranian. Maura is from Mexico; Reza is from Iran.

The service is individual and personal. Everything from cooking to serving is done by the family and you feel this when you enter the sunny room with big windows and a piano at the entrance. If you’re in the mood for a pizza brunch, Casa Maura has a wood-burning oven. Now that I mention it, we may just go back for pizza tonight.

Keeping the best of Village Szechuan, Red Ginger adds a new look—and sushi

Barbara Moser

March, 2011

I’ve been a regular at Village Szechuan since The Senior Times and I moved down the street 19 years ago, so it was with trepidation that I noticed the new sign on the outside—Red Ginger.

Fortunately, new owner Tony Yung has kept the Szechuan taste and quality and added sushi to the dinner menu. Now we have to decide— sushi or Szechuan?

We still love those Szechuan lunches with no-meat (soy protein) options starting at $8.95, including soup, entrée and main dish. Tony has also introduced a $6.95 bowl lunch. My favourite is the large vegetarian soup.

The menu du soir ($14.95 - $16.95), including soup, entrée and main dish, looked good to me one cold evening after work. The ample portion of spinach and ginger soup has seaweed, fresh baby spinach, two kinds of Chinese mushrooms, bamboo shoots and plenty of ginger, in a light vegetable broth.

Red Ginger has a whole new look and ambiance. It’s modern and sleek with dark brown leather seats, cozy booths and a classy dining room that can be closed off with a glass door for private parties.

When you enter, you’re greeted (if he’s not busy creating his masterpieces) by Louis, Ginger’s No. 1 and only sushi chef. In my many visits, I’ve come to feel as though Louis is my personal sushi chef. But more about his creations later.

The sashimi we took home to photograph Photo: Barbara Mosr

After my soup, I was served my favourite dumplings in peanut sauce. For 50 cents more, they’ll make them vegetarian, the only way I eat them. These six little al dente jewels lie in a bed of not-too-thick peanut sauce. Share to leave room for the main. My sizzling salmon in black bean sauce created quite a stir as it arrived.

If you like your salmon medium rare, remove it at once from the sizzling dish. Otherwise it will continue to cook. This sweetish, mildly spicy dish is filled with fat fresh asparagus, snow peas, onion slivers and oyster mushrooms. Split two mains for variety.

Irwin and I returned last Saturday to “review” the sushi. We have been enjoying sushi night out at Red Ginger since they opened, happy to have found a sushi place a block from us. The place was packed with more than 50 diners, choosing from the menu du soir. Red Ginger does a mean delivery business Saturday nights, so if you’re going for sushi, go early or late, unless you don’t mind the wait for the little delicacies. We asked for our usual miso soup, a large and excellent portion, an antidote to the damp cold outside. This miso is a must starter at $3.50.

We ordered from the à la carte check-off sushi sheet: salmon and tuna sashimi ($3 and $4), which come in exquisite little cucumber “bowls” mixed with crispy rice and a touch of spicy sauce. We always request our rolls spicy, but that’s us. These gorgeous morsels are topped with red caviar and served with lots of light ginger and grated carrots.

We went for the tuna and salmon Hosomakis, six small pieces wrapped in seaweed, quite fat pieces dabbed with spicy sauce.

We ordered three kinds of futomaki, five pieces each with a combination of ingredients: kamikaze ($6.50) spicy salmon ($5.75) and spicy tuna. ($5.95) The ingredients are all fresh and tasty and you definitely won’t break the bank at Red Ginger.

We prefer the avocado and tempura in our sushi rolls but avoid the goberge, a kind of artificial crabmeat. We also prefer raw fish to cooked or fried.

Alas, there were no soft-shell crab specialty rolls that night.

We thought about sampling the shrimp tempura entrée instead but thank goodness we forgot to order it. We couldn’t even finish what we’d ordered and took home four pieces of sashimi for midnight snack, which ended up being our breakfast. We also passed on the Japanese salad we usually share ($5.95).

Our sushi dinner with miso soup came to about $45, including tax but not the tip.

And we always tip Louis—our No.1 personal sushi chef.

LaSalle restaurant helps hungry patrons score a full, satisfied belly

Alice Abracen

December, 2010

As we dragged ourselves from the car, my friend and I were greeted by a frigid gust of air that almost sent us scuttling back into the vehicle.

It was a miserable night and it took determination to face the bitter, glacial wind that assailed us as we scampered through the doors of Rotisserie Scores on Newman in LaSalle. We were welcomed in from the cold and ushered into a comfortable booth.

Scores was ready for the holiday season. The room was warmly lit, and tasteful paintings and red stockings graced the walls, wreaths adorned the lamps. The richly varied salad bar was festively decorated: Gifts and ornaments spilled from the canopy over the vegetables and toppings; a miniature glowing Christmas tree crowned the display.

Waiters glided around the tables, efficient members of a well-oiled and personable machine. Grandparents, parents, grandchildren circled the salad bar ($3.95), and I joined the line, helping myself to some excellent potato salad before returning to my table with my friend Danielle Szydlowski to choose from the rest of the menu. We selected garlic bread ($5.25) and chicken wings (six for $7.50), and decided to share main dishes, a quarter chicken breast and half-rack of back ribs with fires ($19.95) and Texan chicken brochette ($14.95).

As the first dishes descended to anoint our table, we grinned at each other. We knew we’d scored, no pun intended.

The chicken wings were succulent and tender, gilded with a delicious crispy outer layer.

The garlic bread, served with bruschetta on the side, was made with thick, doughy bread straight from the oven, just the right amount of garlic, and a topping of mixed melted cheeses whose buttery aroma reached us even before the plates were lowered to the table.

The service was quick and efficient, our waitress gracious. The main course followed the last with aplomb, and it wasn’t long before we were tucking into our food, too busy licking our fingers to bother to take notes.

The ribs were colossal, slathered in a smoky barbecue sauce and falling off the bone, the chicken monumental but incredibly tender. The other dish, labeled on the menu as an “Inspiration,” had a more exotic quality and wholly deserved its title. The marinated grilled chicken brochette sloped across the plate on a heap of spicily scented rice, two plump scoops of potato completing the paradisiacal image of culinary achievement.

My friend and I didn’t speak for half an hour save to utter the odd grunt of enthusiastic but inarticulate approval, so occupied were we with our meals. Be warned: The portions are large, but this is no cause for regret. We were almost saturated with gluttony when we allowed ourselves further indulgence.

Already full to bursting, we couldn’t help but let our eyes slide over to that tempting vision, the dessert menu. It was too much to resist, and we ordered a fondant au chocolatey ($5.95) and New York-style cheesecake ($4.25).

We could feel our stomachs expanding beneath the table and we began to wonder just how wise ordering a fourth course had been.

Our doubts were dispelled as the desserts were lowered to the table. The fondant was a vision of luscious chocolate cake, topped with chocolate and caramel sauce, encasing a hot chocolate lava that threatened to erupt as I eagerly perforated it with my fork, all engorgement forgotten.

Danielle’s cheesecake was a fluffy, delectable apparition set atop graham crackers and topped with strawberry sauce.

When we finally lurched away from the table, feeling heavy but immensely satisfied, we were reluctant to leave the warmth of the restaurant for the icy breath of the air outside.

We’d had a thoroughly enjoyable (albeit gluttonous) experience. The food was not too costly, the atmosphere was excellent, and the large portions were regarded with delight rather than apprehension.

Follow your nose to soulful, charcoal-oven-baked chicken

Max Harrold

November, 2010

The alluring scent fills the nostrils from three blocks away, conjuring comfort food that really hits the spot. Chalet Bar-B-Q does chicken right, and the aroma is the first sign.

The landmark restaurant on Sherbrooke near Décarie has been around since 1944, way before the expressway opened in 1967. Nowadays, the highway delivers BBQ chicken fans from all over to the eatery with the fiery sign, all-wood decor, cozy booths and waitresses who know just what you want.

The restaurant keeps it simple with chicken as the only meat on the menu. And it helps to arrive with an empty stomach. Chalet Bar-B-Q uses hardwood charcoal ovens to make its chicken with golden, slightly crispy skin on the outside and tender meat inside. It makes you want to gobble it right up — but take your time. There’s no rush.

I recommend a bowl of chicken soup to start, and the Chalet makes the kind that warms the soul. The Caesar salad is creamy, with tiny croutons.

But the pièce de resistance is, of course, the chicken. The restaurant cooks between 2,500 to 4,000 chickens every week, and if you come by to order takeout, you’ll get an ample view of the kitchen, with employees slicing and wrapping chickens while you wait.

Leave lots of room for the Chalet’s amazing, not-too-greasy but just-right crispy French fries. Or you could have an excellent baked potato. Either way, the food is worth lingering over. And you may just have to use your fingers even though you’re in public. It’s OK, that’s why they give you the moist towelette next to your plate. Prices are modest. An appetizer, main course and dessert will run you $15. For dessert, try the delicious carrot cake or the coconut pie. A little coffee and some good conversation and you’ve really got an iconic Notre Dame de Grâce meal under your belt.

Chalet Bar-B-Q, 5456 Sherbrooke W. 514-489-7235 Free parking at the rear of the restaurant.

Kokkino’s is an old-fashioned kinda place

Barbara Moser

October, 2010

I am always looking for somewhere to write my articles and correct my students’ work, a quiet, comfortable place that serves great café au lait with a few extras, where the music is mellow, customers say “good morning,” and where I can settle in with the morning Gazette.

And I’ve found it — at Sherbrooke and Harvard in the heart of N.D.G. What’s inside is written on the window: espresso, patisserie Grecque, salads, tisanes biologiques, yogurt glacé. And smoothies. And everything is made on the premises.

John Zampetovlakis, daughter Jacqueline and father Angelo hang out at Kokkino’s. Photo: Barbara Moser

“I create communities,” says John Zampetovlakis, owner of Kokkino’s. As I sip a superb café au lait, a customer walks in and John says: “Tell me your story.” As I munch on an all-dressed bagel sprinkled with olive oil (John’s amazing concoction), he explains more about how his homey little resto works.

“Somebody needs help with something. I know someone who can help them—like a senior citizen who needs the leaves raked and I know someone who rakes leaves, so I get them together.”

John’s menu is simply and divinely Greek to me. If you’re there around lunchtime, try the flakey, light, and packed with spinach, spanakopita ($3.93) or the tiropita (cheese pie) at $2.50. Add a salad—I highly recommend the curried chick peas or the beets or a bit of each—and a drink, all for $7.95. John also serves burritos and bagels with cheese or butter—or olive oil. Okay, so it’s not all Greek to me.

John owned Miss Monkland, but closed it 10 years ago. Kokkino’s opened about two years ago.

Paintings are exhibited at Kokkino’s and in the winter on Saturdays from 8 to 11pm, he puts on shows — local artists doing folk or rhythm and blues. “I’ve had everything,” John says. “Whatever the person plays.”

Kokkino’s: 5673 Sherbrooke (corner Harvard). Monday to Saturday John opens at 9 am. Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday he closes at 7:30 pm and Thursday, Friday, Saturday at 11pm. Sunday: 11-6. Free WiFi. If and when you do try Kokkino’s, send us your reviews and stories. After all, this is a community we’re talking about, and every day is a story.

How do you like them apples?

Hayley Juhl

September, 2010

It’s a long walk from the bank to the apple orchard, but it’s a move that offers bushels of rewards.

“It’s a semi-retirement,” says André Simoneau of his decision to leave the financial world and – if I may – trade oranges for apples.

Simoneau occupies a booth at Atwater Market, but the core of his operation is Verger du Flâneur.

Verger du Flâneur orchard in Rougemont produces 18 varieties of apples. Photo: Hayley Juhl

“It means ‘to hang around’,” he explains with a twinkle.

The Rougemont orchard boasts 5,000 trees producing 18 varieties of apples. The orchard welcomes guests who want to pick their own apples; they also sell to juice-makers and grocery-store suppliers.

In 2005, Quebec produced 78,000 kilos of apples, a healthy slice of Canada’s 433,000 kilos. Of Quebec’s total, 35 per cent is produced in the Montérégie, which encompasses Rougemont.

“It’s a nice place in nature,” Simoneau says. He waves an arm to indicate dozens of plastic buckets full of fresh, shiny fruit. “It keeps me busy.”

Verger du Flâneur’s booth is at the south end of Atwater Market, just outside the café’s doors. The U-pick orchard is at 161 la Petit Caroline, Rougemont. 450-469-3178.

This sandwich is a hero

Hayley Juhl

September, 2010

The star of the show at Kojax Souflaki in Dollard des Ormeaux is the yero. The recipe is top secret, but Kojax’s Mike Romagnolo lets slip a few ingredients at the diner’s counter: love, passion, 30 years of experience and Kojax’s unique spices.

The yero is drip-down-the-side-of-your-hand juicy, invading your taste buds like a benevolent conqueror. This yero will spoil you for the regular fare one expects at a franchise operation.

If meat on a stick is more your style, the chicken souflaki is equally tender and lovingly marinated. Milder-than-usual tzatziki means you can leave the resto with one peppermint rather than a handful. The Greek salad, served with the brochette or yero platter, doesn’t skimp on feta or salty olives.

The restaurant itself is unassuming and unpretentious, and patrons can choose a quiet booth at the back or sit in front, where the picture windows are left open to the breeze on nice days.

Kojax Souflaki, 3343 Sources, D.D.O. 514-421-7474. Free delivery. kojaxsouflaki.com

Atomic bursts of flavour in Chomedey

Hayley Juhl

July, 2010

Demetrios (Jimmy) Tsekeris wasn’t convinced the vegetables he was buying to feed his clientele were up to his stringent standards. So he laid claim to a plot of land in St. Isidore where his tomatoes, zucchinis, onions and other produce are grown just for Atomic Restaurant.

That dedication to quality ­– the son of a butcher, Jimmy is equally passionate about the meat he serves – is evident in every dish. The restaurant, in a small Chomedey strip mall, has been serving pizza from that location for 45 years. Jimmy has been at the helm for the last 16.

Start with the 41-ingredient Atomic salad. It sounds overwhelming, but the flavours work, bound by a generous amount of dressing. If you prefer the herbs and vegetables to stand on their own, ask for the dressing on the side.

Owner Demetrios Tsekeris lovingly cares for the fig trees in front of his Chomedey restaurant. Photo: Photos: Hayley Juhl

Jimmy is a man of few words and many flavours. There’s nothing quite like the Super Pikilia plate, but be careful – it would be easy to fill up on tender calamari, spicy four-cheese spread, to-die-for eggplant salad and other delights, and not leave room for the tenderest chicken, lamb or pork you have ever put in your mouth. Sons Peter and Jimmy Jr. went to culinary school together and now work alongside their father on the floor. They’ve been working at Atomic since grade school and have no plans to leave the family business.

Atomic displays its wine as many restos display their desserts, proudly and prominently. On dessert, Peter says: “Don’t worry, there’s a special section in your stomach just for dessert. Really.” He’s right. The honey balls are light as air and sweet as a summer morning.

Reservations are not required but recommended during the weekend. Enjoy live music on Friday nights. 4637 Souvenir, Chomedey. 450-688-6340

Treats for palate and pocketbook in Côte St. Luc

Hayley Juhl

June, 2010

One of the finest pleasures of living in this city is stumbling upon its hidden treasures.

A finely carved gargoyle atop a crumbling building. A community garden flowering in the centre of the asphalt jungle. A world-class chef toiling in the kitchen of a tiny storefront restaurant.

The first two we’ll leave you to discover on your own. For the last, a hint: His name is Jean-Daniel Cuenat and he and his wife, Mia, run Manger Avec Eric.

Chef Cuenat has 30 years of experience in his mixing bowl, gained in prestigious hotels and restaurants in Dubai, Zurich, Toronto and as executive chef at the Old Port’s Hotel Nelligan.

Chef Jean-Daniel Cuenat (left) with Meir Zipper. Photos: Melani Litwack, Hayley Juhl

“Big hotels were not my thing,” Cuenat says of the move to this small space in sleepy Côte St. Luc. “And there can be a lack of communication there, between the server on the floor and the kitchen.”

Here you won’t find white tablecloths or a stuffy maitre d’ and communication is as simple as a soft word to Mia from across the room.

Cuenat and his customers also benefit from a more flexible menu. Breakfast, which is served all day, includes succulent omelettes with fresh vegetables and quality cheeses, pancakes, and homemade jam that tastes as though it’s flavoured with honey (it isn’t). He’ll make breakfast with just egg whites if you prefer, can prepare kosher-style food and is open to trying new things based on customer preferences or dietary restrictions.

As she does with everyone who walks through the doors, Mia greets Meir Zipper by name. He was one of their first clients when they opened 10 months ago. While he waits for breakfast – a smooth omelet and sliced tomatoes under a sprinkling of feta – he explains how Manger Avec Eric became part of his daily routine.

“If you don’t feel like cooking, you know, as a lady, maybe you would call him up,” he says, referring to Cuenat. “Tell him what you want and he’ll deliver it. It’s good for us senior citizens, because some of us are on a budget, a limited income, and we can eat here.”

Everything on the menu is under $10, which also attracts local students between 11:30am and 12:30pm on school days. Regulars are advised to come before or after that time, when it’s quieter, but the Cuenats and Zipper don’t begrudge the students. “Before, there was nowhere for them to go,” Zipper says. “Maybe up there for pizza. Now they come here and they eat well.”

“There are no hot dogs on this menu,” Cuenat adds. His 7-year-old son, for whom the restaurant is named, is used to great food – his favourites are lasagna and salmon. The restaurant also serves bubble tea, which can hard to find in N.D.G. and Côte St. Luc.

The restaurant seats about a dozen customers and the Cuenats treat all of them as part of the family. “I make special food for them,” the chef says. “If somebody wants something different, I can do it. It's important to play with them.”

There are so many ways to enjoy the food at Manger Avec Eric. To get the most out of it, have breakfast there with a large mug of Union Café coffee, then pick up a boxed lunch for later. You won’t find peanut butter sandwiches — how about a rosemary-marinated chicken breast with roasted peppers, swiss cheese and mixed leaves and sour cream scented with oregano? You won’t be hungry for some hours, but you can always give them a call later and place an order to pick up or have delivered.

Manger Avec Eric, 6408 Côte St. Luc Rd., 514-564-3733. Open weekdays from 8 am to 6 pm, Saturday and Sunday, 8 am to 3 pm.