Atomic bursts of flavour in Chomedey

Hayley Juhl

July, 2010

Demetrios (Jimmy) Tsekeris wasn’t convinced the vegetables he was buying to feed his clientele were up to his stringent standards. So he laid claim to a plot of land in St. Isidore where his tomatoes, zucchinis, onions and other produce are grown just for Atomic Restaurant.

That dedication to quality ­– the son of a butcher, Jimmy is equally passionate about the meat he serves – is evident in every dish. The restaurant, in a small Chomedey strip mall, has been serving pizza from that location for 45 years. Jimmy has been at the helm for the last 16.

Start with the 41-ingredient Atomic salad. It sounds overwhelming, but the flavours work, bound by a generous amount of dressing. If you prefer the herbs and vegetables to stand on their own, ask for the dressing on the side.

Owner Demetrios Tsekeris lovingly cares for the fig trees in front of his Chomedey restaurant. Photo: Photos: Hayley Juhl

Jimmy is a man of few words and many flavours. There’s nothing quite like the Super Pikilia plate, but be careful – it would be easy to fill up on tender calamari, spicy four-cheese spread, to-die-for eggplant salad and other delights, and not leave room for the tenderest chicken, lamb or pork you have ever put in your mouth. Sons Peter and Jimmy Jr. went to culinary school together and now work alongside their father on the floor. They’ve been working at Atomic since grade school and have no plans to leave the family business.

Atomic displays its wine as many restos display their desserts, proudly and prominently. On dessert, Peter says: “Don’t worry, there’s a special section in your stomach just for dessert. Really.” He’s right. The honey balls are light as air and sweet as a summer morning.

Reservations are not required but recommended during the weekend. Enjoy live music on Friday nights. 4637 Souvenir, Chomedey. 450-688-6340